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December 10, 2012

In search of health food

by Quinn O'Neill

Foie grasI’m getting fed up with all the potentially disease-causing crap in my food. Every day there are new reports in the media linking various food additives, components, and contaminants to diseases. The list is of suspects is long: acrylamide, arsenic, aspartame, bisphenol A, carrageenan, pesticides, artifical dyes, and high-fructose corn syrup, just to name a few. There are even naturally occurring compounds that may have cancer causing potential. Basil, for example, contains a number of alkenyl compounds, like estragole and isoeugenol, that appear to have carcinogenic effects in animals.

To be clear, I’m not saying that each or any of these compounds is necessarily harmful. Certainly, most of the media reports are sensational and unreliable. If you go straight to the scientific literature to do your own investigation, you’ll generally find this: some papers will claim that the substance is perfectly safe and some will suggest that it may cause a variety of undesirable health effects. Many of the papers suggesting safety will have been done by industry-funded researchers and there’ll probably be a few reviews that purport to consider all of the studies and conclude with a statement like this: “When all the research on aspartame, including evaluations in both the premarketing and postmarketing periods, is examined as a whole, it is clear that aspartame is safe, and there are no unresolved questions regarding its safety under conditions of intended use.”

Well, I think there are still a few unresolved questions, like can the NutraSweet company be trusted to evaluate the safety of a substance that makes them megabucks? And can we trust our regulating agencies to look out for us while they employ people with ties to industry? I’d say no and no to those questions, and maybe I’m a bit neurotic, but if there’s any doubt about the safety of a particular substance I’d rather not eat it. The most obvious alternative would be to buy organic, but this is a pricey option and there may be residues of potentially harmful pesticides, like copper sulfate, in organic food too.

I would personally welcome the development of some kind of guaranteed-not-to-make-you-sick food. Something without acrylamide, carrageenan, aspartame, carcinogenic alkenylbenzenes, dimethylcrapylpoisonide, or any other form of known or suspected, added or naturally-occurring carcinogen. The food should be nutritionally complete, properly balanced with respect to carbohydrates, protein and fat, vegan, non-allergenic, environmentally friendly, and have a low glycemic index. Also, because I’m lazy, it should require minimal preparation, and come packaged in something environmentally friendly and free of BHT, phthalates and BPA.

Most importantly, I'd like the product to be well tested - first in animal studies and then in human randomized controlled trials and cohort studies that can continue into the long term. Individual ingredients may have different effects when consumed alone than they would in combination, so it’s not enough to test the components individually. Even the packaging should be accounted for. Popcorn, for example, might be a healthy snack when prepared with an air popper, but not so healthy when it comes in a microwavable bag laced with PFOA, the non-stick pan chemical. We’d need to test the final packaged product.

Another unrealistic but essential criterion for my proposed health food is that it be produced on a not-for-profit basis. Where there is money to be made, maximizing profit tends to become the primary objective and secondary goals may take a back seat. Consumer demand for safe and healthy food isn’t enough, since consumers only need to believe that something is safe in order to buy it and marketing is a deceptive and effective tool. In the creation of this food product, the health of the consumer cannot be compromised for the sake of profit and the incentive to do so would need to be removed.

As you may have inferred, I’m not much of a “foodie”. I eat primarily for survival and in the midst of thesis writing, exam weeks, or just-plain-busy periods, I’ve been known to live off of rice crispies or granola bars for weeks at a time. I’m the sort of person who would be content to consume a scoop of feed a few times a day. I realize that not everyone is like me; however, I don’t think this is problematic. The proposed nutritionally complete food could come in a variety of forms and flavors - perhaps as a shake, as a dry food to be eaten like popcorn or pretzels, or maybe as an energy bar. Variety would accommodate different preferences and needs. Perhaps a shake would be nice for breakfast and a bar easier for those on the go.

This sort of diet would never satisfy the foodie, but it might be welcome as an occasional meal replacement when short on time. Variable appeal might also generate useful study cohorts of never users, occasional users, and exclusive users, facilitating epidemiological studies on its safety and health effects.

Means this is all pretty unrealistic anyway, I’ll add that the product should be manufactured in developed countries by people who are paid a decent wage, so that even the manufacturing process would promote health indirectly. This undoubtedly sounds completely unfeasible - I’ve already mentioned that it should be a not-for-profit undertaking and now I’m suggesting that we pay Americans a sensible wage to make it. However, if properly tested and confirmed as a health-promoting product, sold at an affordable price, and marketed effectively to maximize its consumption, it could reduce the social burden of diseases like obesity, cancer, diabetes, and heart disease. Perhaps it would be cost effective.

Of course, this is all just a fanciful imagining and I'll probably settle for arsenic-laced rice with pesticide-tainted veggies for dinner tonight. Many people's dinners will be far less healthy than mine. The unfortunate reality is that our food is largely produced with the aim of maximizing profit rather than optimizing the health of consumers. This explains why supermarket shelves are stocked with items like hot dogs and soft drinks. And why we eat stuff like this:

 

My idea of an ideal food might differ markedly from yours, but I think there’s an interesting question to be considered here. If optimizing health were the primary objective of US food producers, how different would the average American diet be?

 

photo credit: cyclonebill

Posted by Quinn O'Neill at 12:25 AM | Permalink

Comments

I like your idea despite being a bit of a foodie, Quinn! :-)

And I think you may have ruined chicken nuggets for me forever! :-(

Posted by: S. Abbas Raza | Dec 10, 2012 1:24:10 PM

It seems that we (in the more social-democratic parts of the developed world) are now the longest lived people who ever lived. No large population of hunter-gatherers or anyone else seems to have had this average life span (as far as we can tell). Richer people in the less social-democratic parts (like the US of A) also live very long but poor people drag the average down a little bit. In short, longevity has improved as our food has become more processed and unhealthy.
I am not claiming the two facts are related in some causal manner. In fact, at the level of the individual it would probably add a few years to life if he or she could stick to "healthier" food. At the level of society, it may not, since supply would (with currently existing means) almost certainly lag behind demand. One assumes the rich would get the better food. Still, the poor need not face total disaster. Even the poor in the USA outlive most known human societies of the past.
Once lack of food, dirty water and childhood infectious disease are drasticlaly reduced, "unhealthy" commercial processed food is a relatively minor contributor to mortality. Its likely that it DOES cut down on longevity, but overall the balance is still in favor of modern life because of lower childhood infection rates, more abundant food, better sanitation etc.
My point is not that you should give up your quest for healthy food. Just that the gain in years of life is likely to be relatively small.
e.g. http://voices.washingtonpost.com/checkup/2010/12/this_healthful-eating_thing_mi.html

the low hanging fruit is in smoking cessation and good sanitation and adequate calories and protein, not so much in finer and finer analysis of additives and processing and suchlike. That doesnt mean these things don't matter. Just that they dont matter as much as sometimes imagined.
I once read that krishnamurti or some such character was invited to lunch by an eager devotee. He ordered steak. His disciple (who had never met him before) was stunned and speechless but remained polite. Half an hour into the meal, he couldnt take it anymore and finally asked the question "isnt that bad for you"?
Krishnamurti said "it probably is, but its not as bad as the way you were looking at it is bad for you".
Avoid stress.

Posted by: omar | Dec 10, 2012 2:06:29 PM

Quinn, the kind of food you would like is here. It's tinned high-end dog food, and it is nutritionally complete for a canine. It travels, it needs no prep, if you can read you can serve it to maintain the canine at a certain weight and not higher or lower, and its recipient is glad enough to get it. Balancing a dog's diet is a lot like balancing ours -- both complex and simple, depending on how you look at it. If we took a leaf from this book, and created a basic human diet in a can, the poor could have adequate nutrition, and they wouldn't be so ill with complaints borne of poverty coupled with high calorie diets or the absence of fresh produce or whole grains.

Now, why don't we DO this thing? Probably for the same set of reasons we don't head over to Wolfram Tones when we feel like a little Latin music. But thanks very much for one of your signature provocative essays.

Posted by: Elatia Harris | Dec 10, 2012 2:25:11 PM

I have a heuristic argument that the additives in food are pretty much all non-toxic or only marginally unsafe: if in such a litigious nation no-one has made millions out of convincing a jury that some chemical with an unpronounceable name is poisonous, it can't be that bad. I find that argument persuasive, even faced with pharma company regulatory capture.

Posted by: prasad | Dec 10, 2012 6:00:31 PM

"If optimizing health were the primary objective of US food producers, how different would the average American diet be?"

To answer this question posed at the end of the piece, such a change of objective would make absolutely NO difference. Why? Because no one would buy such health food and such producers would quickly find themselves either out of business or back to crafting their chemical concoctions of edible substances.

Posted by: Max | Dec 10, 2012 7:07:01 PM

It is interesting that people are squeamish about how the animal was slaughtered (halal/kosher or not), what parts to eat and how the meat was processed etc, yet indifferent that an animal was murdered in the first place for their pleasure. Maybe someday we will look back and see how barbaric we still were in the 21st century.

Posted by: Raza Husain | Dec 11, 2012 1:59:32 AM

Quinn! Stop worrying! Does healthy living make you live longer it does it just seem that way? As my uncle used to say "There's people dying now that never died before"

Posted by: Brian Mulligan | Dec 11, 2012 3:43:12 AM

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