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September 26, 2012

Sri Lanka to New York...

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We have coffee with almond milk and agave syrup rather than buffalo curd and strong tea and decide to take a long morning walk to integrate back into New York society. The Harlem apartment is right on Central Park. Living in Brooklyn, we don't often get a chance to stroll through this famous place. It is raining just a little, which makes the city feel that much more surreal. Right away I notice how many ducks there are — big fat American ducks, they are so wonderful, trailing along in a row along the algae-topped lake. I notice all the bird sounds and look at the trees in a new way. Even the pigeons look beautiful. Two people behind us speak Spanish and I think it's nice to hear people speaking Spanish. I like this language. There are people wearing expensive shoes picking up their dog's poop with little blue baggies on their hands. I try to picture Sri Lankans doing this and cannot, no matter what kind of shoes they wear. A young woman in a button down shirt and tall rubber boots paces past us. She listens to music on her iPod and has her nose down, reading a daily paper. She does all this without falling, without slowing. It is like a circus act.
more from Stefany Anne Golberg at The Smart Set here.

Posted by Morgan Meis at 10:17 AM | Permalink

Comments

A wonderful re-entry essay, Stephany. What happened to the puppies?

Posted by: Elatia Harris | Sep 26, 2012 3:53:06 PM

A beautiful piece Stefany. I have spent quite a lot of time in SL over the past twenty years and for some reason it also gives me a large re-entry shock, more so than other places. Hoping to get back there early next year for an abundance of string hoppers.

Posted by: Troy | Sep 26, 2012 10:32:56 PM

Nice, Stefany. I particularly liked "But when I stop listening, it sounds like a wretched screech, like a food factory mechanically feeding its diners." :-)

Posted by: Abbas Raza | Sep 27, 2012 3:04:50 AM

After a year in Sri Lanka, not a word about the decades-long civil
war, deaths and destructions that took place!

Posted by: waqnis | Sep 27, 2012 11:20:59 AM

Yes, it was a bit "precious".

Posted by: Reader | Sep 27, 2012 11:28:09 AM

As an Editor at 3QD I normally stay out of the comments section, especially if it is something I posted. I am doubly foolish to enter into comments now since this essay was written by my wife. I am extremely biased all the way through on this, obviously.

But Waqnis' comment bothered me and despite my better judgment I must make a comment here. The insinuation is that Stefany is doing a disservice to the death and destruction Sri Lanka has suffered by not talking about it in her piece. I think this is simply a bad way to think about it. I lived in Sri Lanka for a year too, we were living there together. We spent a lot of time dealing with, thinking about, and talking about the violence of the civil war and everything that led up to it. This is something all Sri Lankans have to face, and something that everyone who goes to Sri Lanka ought to face as well. I think Waqnis is trying in his/her own way to say that. And I can understand and respect that.

But everything that is ever said about Sri Lanka does not have to be about the civil war. Sri Lanka is more than civil war. I felt this from many Sri Lankans friends themselves, a weariness about the fact that the entire country has been reduced to a war. More than that, an annoyance that everyone around the world feels the need to proclaim things about Sri Lanka and what the war is supposed to mean, how it should have been conducted, what Sri Lankans should/must do now, etc.

In many ways, it takes a certain amount of restraint and respect for Sri Lanka NOT to comment on the civil war, NOT to tell everyone what to think about it, NOT to shake the hectoring finger wherever one might. It takes a certain amount of courage, I would say, to leave that alone and to allow the experience of Sri Lanka to have its other dimensions. Both Stefany and I feel very deeply about that place, now, having spent a year there. But I feel personally that the experience of living in Sri Lanka makes me LESS interested in opining on the matter of war and aftermath, not MORE.
I hope that is a feeling that makes some sense to you, Waqnis.

As to anonymous "Reader"s comment. Perhaps the piece is precious. Anyway, it is very precious to me.

respectfully,
morgan meis
editor, 3QD

Posted by: Morgan Meis | Sep 27, 2012 3:09:49 PM

Morgan Meis -

Thanks for explaining the absence of any mention of the civil war in Stefany Goldberg's article.

I,too, was in Sri Lanka albeit for a much shorter stay. It was at the beginning of the strife. Made friends, and worried about them. The civil war left deep scars on the residents. So I found it somewhat odd that the subject was entirely left out. But your comments -- from a different perspective -- make sense.

Posted by: waqnis | Sep 27, 2012 3:36:20 PM

Fair enough. I just meant that the piece is not to my taste, not that it is bad. No offense intended.

Posted by: Reader | Sep 27, 2012 4:28:48 PM

Dear Reader, it just means that it's impossible to satisfy all in this imperfect world of ours.

My wife and I loved the place, civil war or not, as we love the USA despite its ugly similar strugle.

Peace

Posted by: Félix E. F. Larocca, MD | Sep 27, 2012 8:50:14 PM

It should've been 'struggle'. but what the hell..

Posted by: Félix E. F. Larocca, MD | Sep 27, 2012 8:51:42 PM

The great thing about the article was the fact that it is refreshing to read something on SL from an expats perspective, which doesn't center on the war. My last visit was three months after the end of the war and you could feel that the energy of the place had lifted. Over the years the spirit of the people always amazed me amongst the suicide bombings and government offensives, but it was a huge energy change in late 2009. My SL mates, whether Sinhalese, Tamil, Burgher or Moor simply didn't want to continue talking about something that had dominated their reality for 2 and a half decades. Many of them would politely move the conversation on to the future. There is still much heeling to be done and a bloody history to always acknowledge but thanks Stefany for the positive SL vibes.

Posted by: Troy | Sep 28, 2012 5:09:02 AM

Felix,

As L. Cohen put it, the United States is "home to the best and the worst". It's never dull, that's for sure.

Posted by: Reader | Sep 28, 2012 11:55:27 AM

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